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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. But, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

An Surprise Honour

This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest place achieving such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary triumph.